Abanotubani Sulfur Baths

In the heart of Tbilisi, on the right bank of the Kura River, lies the Abanotubani district, where hot sulfur springs meet an ancient bathing tradition. Most of the bathhouses are hidden below ground beneath massive stone domes; their walls are brick, the floors and pools are lined with porous gray stone, and the more expensive private rooms gleam with marble. Originally, people carved bathing pools directly into the rock and filled them with thermal water. Later, in the 17th century, domed buildings decorated with mosaics appeared, while the oldest, the Irakli Bath, still preserves the atmosphere of the 16th century. Today, visitors can choose between communal halls and private rooms with hot pools, stone loungers, saunas, and even a traditional kese mitt exfoliation. One thing to remember: silver tarnishes instantly in hydrogen-sulfide water, so it is best to leave jewelry at home.

Legend has it that Tbilisi itself began with these hot sulfur springs: King Vakhtang Gorgasali discovered them while hunting with his falcon. By the 13th century, Abanotubani had as many as 65 bathhouses, though wars and invasions destroyed most of them. The district's architecture absorbed Persian, Ottoman, and local influences, while the 19th century added elements of Russian eclecticism, including elaborate entrance portals and lavish halls for wealthy guests. Bathing here inspired writers and poets: scenes from the novel Ali and Nino take place in these baths, and Pushkin mentioned the thermal springs in his poetry, capturing the warmth and magic of the place.